How Do You Know if Its Battery or Alternator?

motoman22

This topic comes up a lot in here and I'yard but going to go ahead and clear up some confusion. High-powered mobile audio systems are power hungry beasts. If you want your organization to perform as the manufacturer intends, yous take to provide ample ability.

-How much power does my system need?
Wait at all your components (amps, head unit, x-over, changer, etc..) and write down the OEM fuse rating on each device's power line. Add them all upwards and figure almost fifty% of that number equally what your system will need to be reliable. If one of your amps has ii 20amp fuses, count each of them individually. This is not the most accurate method simply you volition get the ballpark...I dubiety most people have the tools to get more specific.

-How much battery do I need?
Enough to start your engine. This is what the battery does, nada more. Period, anything y'all hear to the contrary is a myth. The competetion vehicles with banks and banks of batteries use them because they practice not run the engines in their vehicles and they mind for extended periods... they INTEND to drain their batteries, you lot don't.

-How much alternator exercise I demand?
After you lot figured 60% of your organisation'due south demand in a higher place, add about 30-50amps (depending on demand here, these are not concrete numbers) and that'southward what your alternator needs to produce to keep up with your system. If yous don't have enough alternator, you are taking it out of the battery and you'll end upwards stranded somewhere.

READ THIS CAREFULLY: If your alternator does not produce more than power than the sum of the electrical systems in your car demand, you will hate life. Either upgrade the alternator or downgrade the system. You lot can't wing without wings.

-What about a capacitor?
Capacitors have 1 quality that the audo community likes: fast discharge. A capacitor is like to a battery; they don't brand power, they shop it. A capacitor holds a large jolt of power on tap and tin can dump it into the amplifier when a difficult bass hit comes about. Then the capacitor slowly (it'south really quite fast but much slower than the belch rate) charges back up and sits waiting for another surge in demand. If your headlights slightly dim ONLY on large bass hits or if your big bass hits seem a trivial mushy simply you have NO OTHER Power Issues, you lot volition find a do good with using a capacitor.

Summary: More batteries don't help and adding capacitors don't help...calculation either of these to an already taxed charging system just perpetuates the trouble. Again, your charging system must produce more than your full electrical demand or yous are draining your battery.

-Moto

Dominic L.

good job on info ;)

Derek I.

hehe, i only saw the link to this on a dif. post, good task moto, i was thinkin most writing something similair becuase it comes up so ofttimes. i had to write one like that for my other forum. helps a lot instead of typing the same thing 100 times eh? :)

motoman22

No joke Derek, I get and so tired of explaining serial and parallel that I'k about to puke. I don't even bother linking to particular posts anymore, I just send them to the accessories lath to exercise a little research. If they can't observe this 1 they take no business organization trying to install audio equipment.

peace

Derek I

stupid ppl talking about hey i'll just get another battery. or i'll but become a cap. they need to realize that a cap used on a tuckered charging system will merely make things worse than they already are, bahhhh, i just made a link to this site from my other forum, im then tired of this crap, damn.

xJasonx

Hey guys But a quick question. Im not a noob but im not a pro my last system was ii hx2 punch 12" and 2 501s amps and a cap information technology sounded bully but i ened up with two blown subs. Im trying to keep my knew system simple with one jl w7 12" and jl grand/1 mono i was just wandering would i need to supersede my stock alternator or get it rewound? And if so about how much would that cost?
Thanks guys

zacdavis

hey jason, offset i would trade down to a 500/ane for that sub, it will burn up with the 1000/1, 2d, Ohio Generator can help you with your alternator needs. every bit far equally your question on wether or not you lot need a new alt?, i would say yes IF you play it frequently at high volumes, only NO if you play only an hr or so at high volunes each 24-hour interval, your bombardment needs time to recharge if your organisation draws more electric current so what your alternator puts out, so get out your tunes turned down for a while let it charge. in my stance i think y'all should exist ok with your mill alt every bit long as your not just drivin around all day long bangin, good luck w/your organization
ps the all-time i've heard that sub is in slot ported enclosures, sealed has very weak output

xJasonx

Well i have seen w7s with this set and it seems to work fine. I take heard that a w7 sub tin can handle all you lot tin give it. Ive also heard that its better to give a niggling more power rather than underpowering it. The rms is 750 rms and thats underated as most top of the line subs are and according to jl it is still close to the optimum settings (yellow) The sub will be in a vented box. Only i think a 500/i will be a waste.

xJasonx

i institute this site that sells factory alternators simply im non sure what to get. I know that it should be over 100a and i found 1 that is 140 simply it sais letf mount direct mound. What is this? I drive a 1996 fourd taurus and her is the site http://accessories.accessoriesgiant.com/?10=176&y=46 if some one could help me find the right alternator i volition purchase it and have it installed by a friend. Thanx
Please e-mail me if you tin can offer me some assistance thanx once more!

zacdavis

xjasonx, i've serviced countless diddled w7's, they can be burned upward. we sold jl at colubiaaudiovideo and i've hooked upwards and sold tons of these subs.
the 500/1 slams this sub very hard, if y'all dont retrieve its enough and you stay with the 1000/1 and so i urge you to go along your infrasonic filter turned upwardly and keep the gain levels minimal.
you can blow it upwardly, and my opinion on the rms rating differs from jls, at about 700rms with a sign sweep the sub begins to overxcurt(distort).
i'chiliad not trying to talkdown your sub, i think they are one of the best, however i just don't want to see ya fry your sub.

xJasonx

Well i don't know simply similar i said im not a pro and i don't want to fry my sub but almost every w7 ive seen i have seen it with the 1000/1 just anyway if i do get the 500/1 volition i need to replace my co-exesting alternator?

xJasonx

Also ane more thing, I went to the jlaudio website and information technology sais recomeneded amps 500/1 or 1000/i http://jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/12W7_MAN.pdf
So im just curious to why jl would suggest this amp if its risky?

zacdavis

my master bespeak is that the 12w7 will slam slam slam so hard with the 500/i, listen to one w/that set up and i promise you'll concord, now second, the 500/1 puts out over 600 rms, so we know that the 1000/1 is underrated equally well, yous must know that 1000rms+ is to much for that 12. save your coin, trust me friend.

xJasonx

Ok Im gonna go with the 500/1 and run into how that sounds. should a cap acompany this setup i had a cap with my final system and information technology didn't do Sh*t. Also what size amp kit. I was thinkin 4 awg.
Thank you for your assist zac. hey thanks man. i take been trying to figure out what i demand to upgrade. So many people i have talked to just say become a battery or a cap. Thanks for immigration upwards the crap. You lot are the human being.

GlassWolf

New member

Username: Glasswolf

Post Number:

288
Registered: 12-2003
likewise meet here for more information on this stuff:
http://pub14.ezboard.com/fcaraudiotalkfrm27.showMessage?topicID=23.topic
http://pub14.ezboard.com/fcaraudiotalkfrm27.showMessage?topicID=ten.topic
http://world wide web.bcae1.com/charging.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/capacitr.htm

that should tell you absolutely everything yous always wanted to know nearly charging systems and capacitors.
and probably then some.
I wrote ii of those manufactures myself.

Michael Bates

New member

Username: Motoman22

Postal service Number:

vii
Registered: 12-2003
xJasonx, the 1200/1 volition work fine with a W7 sub... only make certain the enclosure is tight and proper for the sub (and use your encephalon with the settings considering you Tin blow pretty much anything with that amp.)

Saying you lot can't utilise the 1200.1 on that sub is like saying y'all can't go the speed limit in a Porsche. Information technology's all nearly control.

GlassWolf

New member

Username: Glasswolf

Post Number:

291
Registered: 12-2003
a JBL P1200.i puts out a little over 1200wRMS @ 2 Ohms.
The JL 12W7 is rated for ~750wRMS peak power without voiding the warranty on it, and who wants to waste a 3 yr wararnty?
The 12W7 is a iii Ohm sub though (dual ane.five Ohm coils) so the 1200.1 will put out less than it's rated power for 2 Ohms, making the combination a pretty good match.
You'll actually be feeding the sub about 900wRMS.
That's over the rated amount of power for that sub, but if you lot have a sub level control on the crossover, or head unit, go out it turned down so the amplifier never delivers full power and yous'll exist fine.
The platonic recommended amp for a 12W7 is the JL 500/1
that delivers a little over 650wRMS of real world ability.

Michael Bates

New fellow member

Username: Motoman22

Mail Number:

70
Registered: 12-2003
I'thou non bumping I accept 2 Kenwood +db 12'south with a 1000 watt Kenwood Excelon amp. I likewise accept a 45x4 Excelon headunit with a 10 deejay Kenwood changer. My problem is whenever I play my music actually high it plays for about 10 minutes and so the amp shuts off. If I permit my truck sit down for a couple of minutes and turn it back on than its fine until I turn it up again. I got a .five farad cap thinking that would help only information technology didnt't really. What could this be?

GlassWolf

Gilded Member

Username: Glasswolf

Post Number:

1165
Registered: 12-2003
1: weak alternator
two: overheating
3: typical kenwood poor reliability and performance.

Soundbite

Bronze Fellow member

Username: Zen936

Postal service Number:

55
Registered: 01-2004
And I idea the excelon really looked skilful... :-)

I retrieve the kickoff two were reasons were more legit.

Chris Ohrtman

Unregistered guest

I'm looking into starting a new system. In the car I'm driving now, I have alot of Diamond products, ie TDX subs and Hex speakers. But I was told by a reliable source that 12W7 subs are ameliorate than TDX and that Focal Utopia componets are better than hex by diamond. Which way should I go? Footstep one: read topic
Step two: realize that this thread discusses ability needs
Step three: Find thread on topic or get-go new thread.

Give thanks you

jerome99

Unregistered guest

hey guys,
im kind new to this stuff, merely i have a 2000 camry and ii 10"eclipse ti, running off of an autotek stealth1500. i besides have the eclipse 55090 deck which runs off of my other eclipse amp. both amps draw around 120-130 amps. my camry probably merely produces around 90. should i get a cherry tiptop battery, cap, both, or just new alternator. practice u know who makes good alternators?
i was likewise going to upwards my subs to probably ii 12"w6. i was told go with the w7, simply i've heard great things almost the w6. what do u suggest?
thanx

wj94

Bronze Member

Username: Wj94

Mail service Number:

fourteen
Registered: Feb-04
Also 1 more thing, I went to the jlaudio website and information technology sais recomeneded amps 500/ane or one thousand/1. So im simply curious to why jl would suggest this amp if its risky?

to answer that question......which ane costs more money? there'due south your respond. =)

jiggaman007

Unregistered guest

I'v just bought a 10w7 in a prowedge box. I also bought a 500/ane jl amp, exercise i need a capacitor???

Michael Wasyliw

Bronze Fellow member

Username: Alpinepower Canada

Mail Number:

xx
Registered: Jun-04
If your lights are dimming:

First upgrade alternator
Notwithstanding outta luck?
isolator to optima yellowtop in body (deep bike battery)
Still outta luck? HAHAHAHAHA
Endeavour a decent sized cap, only if the other 2 suggestions dont assistance you, buy a new car!

Michael Bates

Statuary Member

Username: Motoman22 Dallas , Texas USA

Post Number:

fourscore
Registered: Dec-03
I'thousand not bumping

rumblesamende.blogspot.com

Source: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/4640.html

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